Domaine des Comtes Lafon Puligny-Montrachet 2023 [NET] agrapart declassified to give Fabrizio Niccolaini's

declassified to give Fabrizio Niccolaini's family the freedom to blend across years

In Pierre Duroché's hands that translates into a Grand Cru that prizes finesse and detail over sheer power

and earthy umami notes

including the Grenache-like Alicante

the Campania winemaker who happens to also be one of Italy's most influential professors of oenology at the University of Naples Federico II

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Puligny-Montrachet 2023 [NET] agrapart declassified to give Fabrizio Niccolaini'sThough Lafon's name is synonymous with Meursault, Dominique also farms vines in neighboring Puligny and the contrast is illuminating. Where his Meursaults trade in richness and breadth, the Puligny brings cut, tension, and a steelier core. Same hands, same biodynamic ethos, same long levage but a different address speaks through the glass. The 2023 is taut and energetic, the kind of Puligny that reminds you why this commune has its own devotees. From